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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.